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Parking: In a layby just north of the Cross Keys Inn.
The Walk
After some discussion we agreed that we should walk in the Howgills rather than tackle Baugh Fell. All day we could see the big lump of Baugh Fell; it’s certainly an impressive lump of a fell.
As we got to the layby two guys were setting off on the path to Cautley Spout. We were to catch them up at the bottom of the spout.
At the north end of the lay by take a foot path (FP Cautley Spout) that drops down to a wooden footbridge and crosses the River Rawthey. On the far side of the river turn left on a man-made track that tracks along the northern bank of the river. After around 0.3km with the footbridge crossing Cautley Beck take a weak path off right. This runs parallel to the main path ascending Cautley Beck but is slightly shorter and much easier on the feet as it’s all grassy. Soon you get your first sight of Cautley Spout at the head of the valley. It’s like a magnet drawing you to it. The path is fast and easy and after 1.2km you join the main track just before the real climbing starts. There were wild ponies grazing by the path; not a site you often see on the fells but not uncommon in the Howgills.
The track begins to climb and shortly divides, left going to Cautley Spout but we took the right hand path which climbs up the right hand side of a beck to Bowderdale Head. It was here that we met the 2 guys we seen leave the layby as we drew up. They looked a little tired even before the pull up the Spout. They had left by the time we returned. It’s a nice climb and a forewarning of the ascents ahead. As you get to the coll at the head of the Bowderdale Valley take a path off to the right that climbs diagonally towards a clough that climbs to the south of Yarlside. As you approach the clough the path bends and ascends parallel to it before petering out. You are then on your own. Ascend the fell side to the hill to the south of Yarlside. The top section is quite steep but suddenly the gradient eases and you’re at the top and are met by a small cairn (and I mean a small cairn). But the views are huge with spectacular views across to Baugh fell, Wild Boar Fell and beyond to High Seat. You also get your first site of the higher Howgills and boy are they worth seeing.
Drunk with the scenery it’s time to progress. A good path heads north to a coll and a small tarn (not on the map) before a gentler ascent to a much bigger cairn at the top of Yarlside. The views here are even better for you can see the Yorkshire Three Peaks, Cross Fell and the Dunn Fells, the lakes and the whole of the Howgills. Breathtaking.
From the summit head just west of north on a path that takes you to the northern edge of Yarlside and spectacular views down the Bowderdale Valley. But from here you have to drop down in a north easterly direction, a very steep (and I mean very steep) grassy fell side to a coll at the top of Little Randy Gill and between Yarlside and Kensgriff. It is the steepest grass slope I think I’ve ever descended and needs some care in wet weather. From the coll a good path ascends up north east to the top of Kensgriff and another nice cairn.
From Kensgriff a good path heads north east and descends down to the coll at the top of Great Randy Gill and Stockless Gill. As you get towards the coll take the left hand path which passes below a small tarn at the coll. From here a path climbs to a path coming from Green Bell. Having crossed this you now have to ascend north west the grassy and pathless fell side to the top of Randygill Top, another cairn and more spectacular views.
From Randygill Top a path goes off south west heading towards Hazel Gill. It drops down nearly 900 ft to the junction of Randy Gill, Bowderdale Beck and Hazel Gill. It’s a long way down especially when you realise the route ahead is straight up the other side. At the bottom you have to cross the streams which is not too easy when there is a lot of water about. We stopped at the bottom to eat our lunch before the ascents to come. Bowderdale is a lovely valley and nearly as spectacular as some of the Lakeland valleys; it’s a good example of a U shaped valley with steep grassy slopes either side.
Here we met our first traveler of the day, a lone grey head. ‘Have you come down from Randygill’ he asked in a Cockney drawl. Yes we said. ‘Did you have trouble crossing the becks’ he enquired and showed us his foot wear – trainers. He explained that previously he come down the same path and had had to take his trainers off to cross the streams. He said that farmers often slide down the fell sides on bits of plastic. You can see why. They’re steep, grassy and largely rock free. However, it would be interesting to see it done on wet grass and see how they control the speed. He said he was heading for Green Bell and was surprised when we told him our route. He headed up the path and we were quite impressed with his speed. But after climbing 100m he stopped for a rest; I wonder if he is a hare or a tortoise?
From the junction of the streams take a quad bike track that climbs the southern side of Hazel Gill. After a plodding climb you reach a coll and a track with Hazelgill Knott on your right and the track heading south and ultimately to The Calf. Ahead, over the Cobles, you can spy Windscarth Wyke and Fell Head. To get there requires another steep descent down a grassy and yes it is a steep slope to the junction of East Grain and Middle Grain at the top of the Langdale Valley. It’s a lonely and desolate spot. Wonderful and well worth the effort. DS slipped over twice on the descent– it happens to the best and is an indication of the severity of the descent.
From the junction of the grains turn right and head down the valley. We crossed to the left hand bank because the infant becks were quite wide and not easy to cross with the amount of water flowing. That way we needn’t cross the beck again as our aim was to walk down the valley for 0.6km and then turn left, south east and ascend West Grain to its source at Windscarth Wyke. The valley bottoms tend to be somewhat waterlogged and the river meanders from one side of the valley bottom to the other. In short the distance you travel is always longer than you estimate and the going is slower as you climb the valleys side to overcome the meander and wet areas. Eventually you meet the junction with West Grain.
Its 1.75km from the top of Langdale Beck to the top of Windscarth Wyke. But what a wonderful ascent. It’s not steep and the valley is grassy sided and quite lovely. The sheep are not frightened of humans. If they stay here they will not see many humans, as they are no paths. As you ascend the valley bottom gets narrower and the tops get closer. Eventually you come to the basin and are presented with a series of options. Take the rivulet that aims for the lowest point with Bush Howe on your left and Breaks Head on your right. A short ascent takes you to the coll between the two.
Here, you meet a path and you turn right and climb to the top of Breaks Head. As we climbed we met the third set of people – a couple who were heading down and towards The Calf. The view back across the route you’ve taken is spectacular and you wonder why you’ve done it. From Breaks Head a good path bends round the top of Crooked Ashmore Gill to the summit cairn and the top of Fell Head. The views from here are fantastic. The Lakes are clear as a bell in the distance and you are surrounded by the Howgills. Below is the snaking M6 and between it and the Lakes are the Shap Fells.
From Fell Head retrace your steps to Break Head and drop down to Windscarth Wyke. From here climb on a good path to Bush Howe. AFter this the climbing is essentially completed for the day and a good path 1.9km long takes you from Windscarth to the trig point at The Calf. It’s easy going on a lovely high ridge grass track. As you approach White Fell Head take the left hand track which leads directly to the trig point. The views are again stunning.
From the trig point you take a man-made track heading south east. It’s one of my least favourite tracks as it’s made from rock chippings that are uncomfortably large. The authority responsible should take a leaf out of the Lakes authorities who use much smaller rock chippings for these paths. The path drops to a coll between Bram Rigg and Force Gill Beck then climbs towards Bram Rigg Top. You need to turn right at the highest point of the path and walk 100m to find a small cairn that marks the top. Then return to the path and continue to the cairn that marks the top of Calders.
There are a number of choices to return to the car from here. The best way is to turn left and head east along the left hand side of a fence. After a couple of 100m the fence bends sharp right from where a path goes off left and down Red Gill Beck to Cautley Spout. Ignore this and follow the fence and in a further 100m it turns sharp right again. Here turn left, heading north east and take a path that shortly divides. Take the left hand path that climbs onto the flat grassy top of Great Dummacks. It’s not easy to identify the top but continue on the path heading north east and before long you drop down to the southern edge of the impressive Cautley Crag. Unless you want to drop several hundred feet quickly you turn left here and descend sedately along a path that tracks along the top of the Crags. For those who are not too happy about heights the path is close to the edge and it certainly makes you feel a little uncertain. But after1.25km you cross Red Gill Beck and Swere Gill and you see the water disappear over the edge and down Cautley Spout.
Continue on the path which heads for Bowderdale Head. In 100m turn right on a path that drops down steeply, parallel with Cautley Spout on your right. The path has been built into steps with as nice a pitch as I’ve seen. As you drop take time to look at the waterfall of Cautley Spout. It’s certainly impressive. Eventually the gradient eases and turns into a grassy track that drops through bracken. The path form Bowderdale head joins form the left and a pleasant path tracks down the lovely valley through which Cautley Holme Beck flows. After just over 1km and just after the footbridge over the Beck on your right, the path bends left and tracks the Rawthey for 0.6km to a footbridge. Cross the bridge and climb to the layby and the car.
GPS settings
Summary
A very strenuous walk which, for the first 4hrs, is either up or down. And the downs are steep, very steep. But the views are spectacular and the valleys stupendous making the effort well worthwhile. The solitude of Bowderdale and Langdale should be experienced. From Bowderdale Head to Windscarth Wyke there are few tracks and you need your wits about you to ensure that you read the map correctly and take the correct route. From Windscarth you are on good paths and route finding is straight forward.
At the end of the day you will have sore and very tired quads; so you have been warned.
The Nuttalls describe the route form Randygill Top to Windscarth Wyke as ‘interesting’. It’s not the most natural route I’ve been on and I wouldn’t like to repeat it often. It is certainly testing. At first I thought it a chore but on reflection it’s a challenge that takes you into some lovely valleys. So put up with the effort and enjoy it.
We didn’t see much wild life except for the sheep and ponies. There were the usual crows and a view rabbits but little else.
A route for a clear day in summer to appreciate the views, eliminate route finding problems and minimise safety issues with the terrain – but then again I can be a wimp.
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