KingsDerwentSwainsGreaveGrinahBarrowGrinahGrainWestendKings
6th March
To the source of the Derwent
Who went: Self – called planned walk off because of gout; felt well enough to go out because the weather was fabulous
Weather: Sunny periods; warm out of wind and in sun. Warm enough to wear just a T shirt!
Parking: Park at Kings Tree. You can only park here on weekdays as the road from Fairholmes is closed at weekends and on Bank Holidays.
The Walk
From Kings Tree, walk up the valley and through a pedestrian gate (FP Slippery Stones) and onto a good track that crosses Linch Clough and takes you up to the Bridge at Slippery Stones. It's about 1.25km from Kings Tree to the Bridge but it is always a pleasurable walk, any weather, any season. Today the Canadian Geese were calling out from the reservoir waters and because I was an hour later than I normally set out there were lots of people. I never seen so many at the start of a walk. 3 blokes were ahead of me but I caught up with them at Slippery Stones; 2 guys, who were clearly photographers, came down from the track from Slippery Stones. A lesson learnt; go out earlier and miss the crowds.
As the bridge at Slippery Stones comes into view go through a pedestrian gate and drop down to and cross the bridge. At the far side (eastern side) turn left and follow the track up the valley; shortly the track up the eastern side of the reservoirs joins from the right and in 30m or so cross the bottom of Cranberry Clough via a wooden footbridge. A further 100m on the path divides (FP). Take the left hand track – the sign warns it's for walkers only (great).
This is the start of a lovely walk up the Derwent Valley to its source between Grinah and Barrow Stones. The way ahead is quite easy going. After 0.5km the track divides. For a change I decided to take the right hand track which heads up Broadhead Clough. This was not a good move as although the map says there's a path over to Stainery Clough and then down the Clough back down to the valley track, the second half of the track, particularly down Stainery Clough is weak at best and none existent mostly. Still it was a nice day and the views form Oaken Bank were worth the effort.
From the valley track a good shooters track climbs steadily to Broadhead Clough. As you near the Clough, the track bends round right to follow the line of the Clough. Here turn left off the track at a marker post and follow the line of a fence that drops down to a footbridge that crosses the Clough. On the far side of the Clough, turn left and climb up to Oaken Bank following the line of a fence (on your left). After 200m ignore a stile that crosses the fence and drops down to the valley path and continue to ascend following the line of the fence. Quickly the gradient eases and above you is Crow Stones and ahead is Horse Stone and the Naze.
The views up and down the Derwent valley are worth the effort and there are ever improving views across to Round Hill and Barrow Stones.
The path follows the fence and after 200m it moves away from the fence and heads for Little Stainery Clough which you can clearly see ahead.
The path soon runs out so you tramp over the heather and drop down into Stainery Clough at its junction with Little Stainery Clough. There's a couple of notices erected by the NT about the trees and the wildlife and fauna so you would assume that there are access paths up the Clough.
The map says there's a path on the far side (west side); well if there is I couldn't really find it. So track down the west side through a wood. A path of sorts made largely by sheep can be followed but the gradient gets steeper and with a dodgy ankle and the valley track in sight (just) it was prudent to climb up and above the tree line. As the gradient lessened track down the valley until you hit the main Derwent Valley. As there was no sight of the path the map said should be there I dropped down to the valley track just above Stainery Clough.
The going up the track is now much easier and faster. At Lands Slide the track moves away from the river and 1.5km after Stainery Clough the track degrades into a path opposite Upper Small Clough. A single walker who was ahead dropped off the track and headed for the Clough. The path heads across wet grass land to the river at Humber Knolls.
From here it tracks the river up to and past Coldwell Clough. The going is now quite wet and the path moves away from the river on drier ground (some hope). Ahead I was catching up two walkers who I eventually caught up as they stopped to check there map before heading up Hoar Clough.
Past Hoar Clough the path divides. Take the left hand path that drops down to the river opposite Barrow Clough. The next section of the walk is some of the best in the Dark Peak as the upper reaches of the Derwent are some of the most isolated and desolate.
The way ahead follows the line of the river but the river itself meanders dramatically for the next 400m and the way ahead means that you have to continually jump across the infant river.
At the end the river enters into a steep sided V shaped valley and turns through 90 degrees. You can follow the river as it climbs up into the basin of Swains Greave. On a clear day this is a magical place. Few people venture here. In good visibility it is a lonely magical and damp basin; in poor visibility it's a lonely isolated and nervous place to be. It is the place where the river takes a definite form as the basin forms from Cloughs dropping down from the surrounding moors. The northern end of Barrow Stones is up on the left like the stern of a ship with sailors spying down on you.
Keep the river on your right and walk up to a clear post. From the basin a number of Cloughs run off.
The route to Grinah takes the main Clough that heads due south up the fell. A new fence runs up the Clough coming over from Swains Head and running round the western side of the basin cutting up to the main Clough. From the post head round the eastern side of the basin (keep the basin on your right), cross the clough leading up to Barrow Stones and head over to the fence that runs up the eastern side of the main clough. Follow the fence up and as the gradient eases the fence begins to head up to Barrow Stones.
Cross the fence at a stile and walk up the Clough.
It branches but keep to the main Clough always heading south. Keep faith. Today the walk up onto the moor was at mid-day and the sun marked the way ahead. As you get to the top of the moor, you can see Bleaklow Stones on the right and Barrow Stones on the left.
Soon you can see Grinah Stones ahead and to the left. Head straight for it. If the visibility is poor keep on the south bearing and you will either hit the path from Bleaklow Stones or Grinah.
Today I wandered over to Grinah and stood there looking down over the bleakness of Westend valley and the surrounding moors. In the hazy sunlight it is a magical place. Bleak yet serene, bland yet colourful . You either love these places and the views or dislike them; there's no halfway house. I sat and took in the view for 20mins all by myself.
From the stones head back south to the first grough and then head up it heading north east. Follow the grough up on to the top and past a couple of peaty pools. You can see Barrow Stones ahead and keeping ahead you come to a small white cross that marks the source of the Derwent; or at least someone's idea of it. Personally, I think the source on the grough I walked up but it asks the question,'How do you decide?'
From the source walk over to the northern end of Barrow Stones and from there look down on the Derwent valley and across onto Featherbed Moss and beyond. Now walk back along the edge of the moor heading south west just above the fence that borders the moor and keeps the sheep out. There is a path but its sometimes not easy to find. Eventually you hit the distinctive form of Crown Stones and just below it a gate in the fence from which a path leads to Round Hill. From Crown Stones a good path takes you back to Grinah Stones.
Just before you get to the Stones you can see a gate in a fence below you to the left. Drop down to the gate. Its steep to start with but soon levels off into wet section before you hit the gate.
The gate is at the top of Grinah Grain.
Cross the fence and the stream and turn right and take a weak path and start to descend down the eastern side of the Grain. I have to say it's not the easiest of paths (especially with a dodgy ankle) on the top half. On the descent there were lots of hares one of which I almost trod on; a sure sign that people don't come down here often. However, I kept too high and as I stopped to take my bearings 50m below was a lone runner coming up the Grain on a distinct (?) path.
So I dropped down to the path and then followed it down the Grain. Eventually you cross a fence via a stile – a good check point – and then head round the fell until you hit the shooting track descending from Ronksley Moor. I built a small cairn at the junction so that when ascending you can more easily see where the path starts.
At the track turn right and descend down a good track crossing two 5 bar gates until you drop down to the bottom of the Westend valley above the river. The track follows the line of the river and into some woods.
Eventually the track drops down to a ford. Just before the ford turn left on a track that takes you to a wooden bridge that allows you to cross the river without getting wet.
Once you've crossed the river turn left and take a track that takes you down to the reservoir road. Just before you hit the road turn left and drop down, cross the Westend River again using a bridge and turn right to a gate and the road.
Turn left and walk up the road, past Windy Corner and up to Kings Tree and the car. On the walk up there were cyclists, lots of cars and walkers. The most unusual sight was a mother pedaling down the road with a covered trailer with 2 toddlers in the back. She was chatting away and veering all over the road as she did.
Summary
The walk up the Derwent is an excellent way to the tops. There were lots of people out because of the weather.
The route is easy to follow in good visibility however, there is no path from Swains Greave to Grinah Stones so in poor visibility care and a compass are needed. The path down Grinah Grain is not easy to pick up as you descend but lower down there is a clear line to take and a stile to aim for in a fence.Once you are at the stile its plane sailing
The views are good from Grinah and Barrow Stones and Oaken Bank. However, I would recommend that if you go to Oaken Bank that you take the path down to the Derwent track 200m after crossing Broadhead Clough
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